This is primarily a user-to-user forum, if you expect ST and other engineers to parachute in you're probably going to be disappointed.
Part of Bare Metal is to Read The Manual and Figure It Out. The reference manuals do describe the HW adequately. Part of the curve here is learning how to read and interpret the manual, and how to observe what's happening inside the peripherals.
One of the routes to understand how something works, is to take something that does work (HAL / Cube Examples), and contrast it to how yours does or doesn't work. You can't on one hand dismiss that as a valid course of action because you don't want to do it, and on the other hand expect people to pick through your code to figure out why it's not working the way you want it too.
You can take parts of the code and swap them out, bisect, figure out if it's an initialization thing.
I will note that doing dozens of RMW (Load/Store) actions on a peripheral register is not efficient, if that's the purpose of using bare metal over other paths.
